Jewish Heritage Trip to Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar Blog

Our tour today began in the town of Belmonte. This place was very special. The Mount Sinai hotel, owned by a Jew, introduced us to the special ambience here. Entering the hotel, a flag of Israel and of Portugal stood side by side. With advanced notice, the hotel provides strictly kosher meals under rabbinic supervision with a full time Mashgiach on site.

Despite the inquisition in Portugal in the 16th century, the "crypto-Jews" here maintained their Judaism as best they could. At some point up to the 20th century, they thought they were the last Jews on earth. With no rabbi and no formal education, mother handed to daughter oral traditions of Jewish practice.

When they had to enter a Church for specific occasions, their attitude was "my body enters, not my soul." In 1917, an Ashkenazic Jew, Samuel Schwartz, came to this area for business. Only when he recited the first line of the Shma in front of local crypto-Jews, did they come to understand there were Jews in the world. At the time, the only recognizable word in the Shma was "Adonai."

Here in Belmonte, these crypto-Jews did not disappear or assimilate over the last 500 years. They maintained their Jewish heritage as best they could. They got along with their neighbours and did not face anti-Semitism. With their local oral traditions, the holidays they maintained over the years were Yom Kippur, Pesach, and the Fast of Esther. They identified with Esther who kept her Jewishness in secrecy, as did they.

In 1989, Israel recognized them as fully Jewish. Our local guide today, though not Jewish herself, felt that she and many Portuguese citizens feel that they have some Jewish blood. The community nowadays is served by a rabbi, has an impressive synagogue which meets every Shabbat and holy day, an exquisite Jewish museum, and a Jewish gift shop. This is quite impressive since Belmonte has just fifty or so Jewish families located in an isolated area. We met a synagogue leader and also met the store owner and his family. A number of the grown children have made or are in the process of making Aliyah to Israel.

In the afternoon, we visited the town of Troncoso, once a Jewish community of 500 Jews. Today, no Jews live here. However, in 2012, the local municipality established a Jewish cultural center, with a modern looking synagogue, a museum, and a memorial room containing the names of the Jews from Troncoso who went through the Inquisition. Homage is paid by the local community to its Jewish history. We were told that the synagogue is used on a regular basis. We davened Mincha there. Inside the Ark were a Torah and a Shofar. Siddurim and Kippot were in ample supply by the entrance. On our way out, we met a Jewish tour group from Mexico.

Tomorrow, we begin our trek toward Lisbon, where will be staying for our final three nights.

Inside the Belmonte Synagogue

Outside the Belmonte Synagogue
 

The Belmonte Jewish Museum

Inside the Troncoso synagogue